Aug 16 - 18
Reykjavik to Akureyri
Roadtripping is definitely the best way to see Icleand! The scenery is amazing and constantly changing. We've driven by mountains, volcanoes, stunning coastlines, big open plains and a ton of waterfalls.
Racheal, Taylor, Adam and I have hired a car and are heading clockwise around the ring road. The first leg, up along the western coast has been somewhat of a rollercoaster ride of incredible places and ridiculous roadtrip dramas.
Driving north out of Reykjavik we quickly started to find the 'good stuff', often spotting places to spontaneously stop. The first one was a cute little waterfall. We climbed as close as possible and the boys enjoyed some quality rock-throwing time. Boys will be boys.
The next stop was a much bigger waterfall. We climbed all the way up, on some slippery mud and unstable rocks. I did fear death as we slid back down the rocks, attempting to get down again. But the view was immense!
Not long after that, we found a canyon. A canyon with a really cool story. It is said that a half-troll half-man being lived nearby with his daughters. One day, his nephew, Rauofeldar, pushed his eldest daughter onto an iceberg and she drifted off to Greenland, somehow unharmed. The half-troll man was so angry that he pushed his nephew into the canyon, which is now named after him (Rauofeldar) but he was never seen again. We went a little bit inside the canyon, beautiful but crazy windy!
In the town of Arnarstapi we meandered along the stunning coastline, admiring the unique rock formations and huge cliffs. We also found several holes, where the ocean water was bashing around, rapidly rising and falling. One little seagull was floating around in one of the holes, looking like he was either having a wicked time or possibly drowning!
There was also a random giant made from rocks!
On our way to the campsite we got more stunning coastline views before the weather turned on us. We did get a lovely rainbow, the first of many. We arrived at the campsite just in time for a proper downpour. We found shelter to cook dinner and sit out the rain. Eventually, the rain stopped and we attempted to put up the tent. We failed. Thank you, wind. The second attempt was slightly better. We got it up! And then just as we were all in the tent, about to go to sleep, it collapsed in on us. Thank you again, wind. Eventually we somehow got the tent back up and had a terrible sleep.
We had hoped the tent fiasco would be the first and last of our dramas. However, day two had rather nasty car suprises in store for us.
But first...
Just down the road from our campsite, we stopped to have a look at the Kirkjufell mountain and nearby waterfall. Despite the dark skies, it was an absolutely stunning spot.
We found another waterfall soon after, tucked away from the road, surrounded by beautiful grassy mountains.
When we stopped for lunch, we discovered we had a flat tyre. Luckily, we were across the road from a mechanic! He pulled a nail out of the tyre and quickly fixed it up for us (But wait...the tyre fiasco isn't over yet...)
Our next stop was Deildartunguhver hot spring - the biggest hot spring in Europe. The water, at 100 degrees celcius, was bubbling away and emitting huge amounts of steam.
Onto more waterfalls! Hranfossar was incredibly impressive. It's like a river with endless waterfalls coming out of its sides! Barnafoss, a much smaller waterfall further up the river was less epic, and had a rather sad story behind it. In Icelandic, the name means "Children's Waterfall" named so because two children are said two have disappeared, presumbly drowned, here hundreds of years ago.
Next we found a big ol' crater to climb! Grabrok crater. An impressive crater...but by the time we got to the top it started to rain.
So we hopped back in the car and set out to find our campsite. When we were part way there, in the middle of nowhere, the tyre that had been 'fixed' earlier that same day...popped! Huge rip all the way round. Completely ruined. We called for assistance but were told it would be 3-4 hours as they had to send someone from Reykjavik. It was already 7pm and rather cold. Eventually we decided that our best bet was to seek refuge at a nearby farm - the only house or building in sight. Luckily, the family that answered the door were amazing. Elin, Ingvar and their three children kindly let us sit in the warmth of their house while we figured out what to do. When it became apparent that the car would not be fixed until morning, they offered for us to stay in their campervan for the night. They drove us to and from our car, twice, to collect our belongings and helped us to communicate with the mechanics, tow truck driver and everyone else involved in fixing the car. Without their help we would have not only been stranded, but we would've also spent a whole lot more money getting our tyre fixed.
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| Beyond excited about cooking and eating in the warmth of this beautiful home! |
While we were there, we chatted away with Elin and Ingvar about Icelandic culture and they explained how their dairy farm runs. Elin also runs a textile company that sells stunning cushion covers, which we adored. I only wish we'd had the time to go look in her shop and buy some! We could not have been more greateful for their kindness, and it just further proves our theory that all Icelanders are lovely people!
In the morning, after our tyre was finally and properly fixed, we were back on the ring road. Our first stop was Holar, a town that seems to have attracted many bishops over the years. We picked up a very informative leaflet that guided us around the tiny village, walking first up to a viewpoint to see the mountains.
Then we walked by beautiful old buildings, including a stunning church and a turf-roof house.
The rest of the day day was mostly driving, with a few stops to admire the beautiful coastline. At one point, we saw a unique black sand beach with islands out in the distance. Needing to stretch our legs, Taylor and I raced down to the shore. He beat me. But only just, I swear...
We arrived in Akureyri late in the afternoon, with plenty of time to set up our tent, cook dinner and roam around town. I absolutely loved Akureyri. It's just got this incredible charm about it. Very typical Icelandic buildings, all in immaculate condition. Quirky shops, lots of bars and restaurants, some funky street art, mountains and all this set upon the beautiful fjord.
Before heading to bed, I walked up to a viewpoint to enjoy the pinks and oranges of the sky while the sun went down behind the mountains.
The roadtrip continues... East we go!
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